Boxwood Biscuit Co. takes flight in the Brewery District – Food and Dining – Columbus Alive

Boxwood Biscuit Co. takes flight in the Brewery District – Food and Dining – Columbus Alive

The excellent breakfast pop-up runs every Saturday and Sunday out of Law Bird

Visiting Boxwood Biscuit Co. is fun for many reasons, but two words spring to mind immediately that say a lot about the welcome new eatery: gravy flight. 

Yup, when just one gravy won’t do, Boxwood has the hookup you need for a three-at-once gravy experience. The operation also offers decked-out sandwiches encased in huge buttermilk biscuits, hefty and healthful veggie bowls with appealing flavors and textures, trendy bottled house cocktails and excellent coffee drinks.

The establishment signals a nimble pivot for co-owners Luke Pierce and Annie Williams Pierce. See, Boxwood began as a “plan B” conceived of after their previous venture — stylish Law Bird in the Brewery District, which became instantaneously popular upon its November premiere — temporarily closed when the coronavirus pandemic hit.

Boxwood — a weekend brunch-time business that utilizes Law Bird’s kitchen on Saturdays and Sundays to sell takeout food from a tented space outside — was launched two months ago to help support Law Bird after the tavern reopened as a drinks-to-go store. (Law Bird’s $12.50 cocktails include Boxwood-specific libations such as the Fernet Branca-esque Sort Yourself Out made with coffee, cardamom and whiskey.)  

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The Pierces didn’t create Boxwood alone. They were aided by talented local chef and ace recipe-developer, Tyler Minnis of The Market Italian Village and Dairy Dose (The Market’s own winning alter ego).  

Minnis was instrumental in producing the oversize biscuits that anchor Boxwood’s small menu. With their fluffy interiors, glossy, golden-brown crusts and down-home flavor, they’re anchors that elevate, rather than sink, Boxwood’s fare. 

One Biscuit ($4) is practically a meal, especially when paired with a smooth yet strong-as-jet-fuel Plain Cold Brew made with Thunderkiss beans ($2.50).   

If you’d like a cruise on the gravy boat, one biscuit with gravy is $7.25. Admission to three saucy destinations with a biscuit — that aforementioned Gravy Flight — costs $9.50. 

Gravy flavors include the signature Pork Sausage Miso (thick, meaty, peppery) and its good vegetarian sibling, Soy-sauge Miso; Truffled Creamed Spinach (super-smooth); Thunderkiss Red Eye Maple (thin, with ham and featuring strong-and-sweet coffee notes) and weekly specials. They’re all good, but face stiff competition from Boxwood’s sharp, zesty and addictive Pimento Cheese spread ($2 a la carte). 

If you’re really hungry (I usually am) or deserve a weekend splurge (I usually do), Boxwood’s gargantuan biscuit sandwiches are the stars of its menu. The Bacon, Egg, & Cheese ($10.75) — an obvious centerpiece — is a comfort-bomb armed with sausage gravy, bacon, melted American cheese, an aioli-like sauce, caramelized onions, plus a large-yet-supple block of souffle-like eggs.

Weekly biscuit sandwich specials have also been delicious. I really enjoyed the Whistle Stop ($12) with fried green tomatoes, speck ham, “corn butter,” pimento cheese, pickled jalapenos and tangy tomato gravy. But my favorite biscuit sandwich might’ve been the Spicy Fried Chicken special ($12) assembled with a crackly crusted thigh, honey, Duke’s mayo, plus pickled onions and jalapenos.

Don’t sleep on the large, warm and hearty breakfast bowls ($12 and $13). A wealth of variable plant matter — e.g. quinoa, pickled cabbage, wilted kale, roasted Brussels sprouts and sweet potatoes — arrived enriched with a properly poached egg and enlivened by zaatar-like “everything crunch,” plus creative vinaigrettes. Pro Tip: If dining with a partner, splitting an indulgent biscuit sandwich and healthful brunch bowl is a filling and great-tasting way to enjoy both comforting and nutritious ingredients. 

Pro Tip No. 2: If a brunch-time dessert is calling and the Biscuit Pudding special ($5) is offered, that impressive bread pudding riff presented with wildflower honey, black-pepper-plum jam and whipped cream outpaces the always available and somewhat heavy but perfectly fine Donut Holes ($3). Both treats, though, will lightly sweeten and uplift your weekend with Boxwood’s smart and welcome new style.


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